VTTW Board Index
May 03, 2024, 04:48:32 EDT *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Game and TV Information - Next football game: Tennessee at Missouri, November 11, 2023, 3:30 p.m. ET, CBS. Go Big Orange!

Message Board Links - Wayne and Hobbes' Auburn Board, Mudlizard's Vitual Swamp
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Home remodeling question...  (Read 15457 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Inspector Vol
All-American
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8236


View Profile
« Reply #25 on: July 12, 2012, 04:26:47 EDT »

73VolGrad and Emeril mentioned codes. Inspector Vol can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I'm almost certain that building codes don't apply. The state didn't adopt a uniform list of building codes for the unincorporated areas that didn't already have local codes until 2009, and at that time most counties opted out by a two-thirds vote of their local legislative body. (I remember because after our county opted out the state encouraged them to opt back in, saying that federal grant moneys might be jeopardized...but most counties never opted back in.) There were only 18 counties that didn't opt out of the state's codes requirement. Here's a list: http://www.tn.gov/commerce/sfm/homebuilding/Apply.shtml

It is my understanding that only applies to inspections not whether codes are expected to be followed by the contractors. Licensed contractors are expected to comply with the state adopted building code regardless if inspections are done or not. If they do not and a complaint is filed they can be forced to correct the violations and possibly be fined or lose their license.
Logged
GreggO
All-SEC
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1764



View Profile
« Reply #26 on: July 12, 2012, 05:45:06 EDT »

It is my understanding that only applies to inspections not whether codes are expected to be followed by the contractors. Licensed contractors are expected to comply with the state adopted building code regardless if inspections are done or not. If they do not and a complaint is filed they can be forced to correct the violations and possibly be fined or lose their license.

I get where this is in the discussion. On another note though, Vinnie shouldn't need any permits, should he? Realizing stringing new wiring could change that, isn't there thresholds needed to be crossed. (Sit back Vinnie and cross your eyes at the nightmare we're creating for you!)
Logged
Inspector Vol
All-American
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8236


View Profile
« Reply #27 on: July 12, 2012, 05:58:06 EDT »

I get where this is in the discussion. On another note though, Vinnie shouldn't need any permits, should he? Realizing stringing new wiring could change that, isn't there thresholds needed to be crossed. (Sit back Vinnie and cross your eyes at the nightmare we're creating for you!)

If there is an inspector for his area I would be shocked if a permit is not required. Electrical inspection will be required for sure and I would want it. Probably should check that out first. They may want him to submit a drawing of some sort to define what the scope of work will be. They should be able to tell him on the phone what the process is for a permit or if he needs one, but I would suspect he will.
Logged
BigOrange Maniac
Guest
« Reply #28 on: July 12, 2012, 06:35:55 EDT »

Again, I may be way off base here, but aside from the larger population areas (Knox County, Davidson County, etc.) and the 13 counties that did not opt out of the state's codes requirements, I don't think permits are required in any unincorporated area of Tennessee. Incorporated towns are a little different; there are 90+ that have codes requirements enforced through the state (in addition to the larger cities that do their own codes enforcement) but I didn't see any from Cocke County on the list I posted above.
Logged
Inspector Vol
All-American
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8236


View Profile
« Reply #29 on: July 12, 2012, 09:09:09 EDT »

Again, I may be way off base here, but aside from the larger population areas (Knox County, Davidson County, etc.) and the 13 counties that did not opt out of the state's codes requirements, I don't think permits are required in any unincorporated area of Tennessee. Incorporated towns are a little different; there are 90+ that have codes requirements enforced through the state (in addition to the larger cities that do their own codes enforcement) but I didn't see any from Cocke County on the list I posted above.

You are correct. If the jurisdiction opted out then there is no permit required except the electrical. That is required throughout the state. The electrical inspector for our area only wants to inspect if you are adding circuits to the house.

One quirk in that law that allowed the opting out was that the jurisdiction had to opt out every year or they would be "opted" in. That may not be enforced though. I checked into all that as I was going to try and be the inspector for my county as a 2nd job but they opted out of course.  I had to fill out a form showing our city had an inspection process and did not need the state.  Also all places that do their own inspections will have to start doing plumbing and mechanical inspections if they do not do them now. This means that all inspectors will have to pass the certification exams for those two, to maintain operations. It is a mandate from the state because the international residential code (official state code) has the code sections for both of those disciplines included with it. The state really wants to enforce building codes throughout the state but doesnt have the political stones to mandate it for all those areas that opted out. The desire from them to have that requirement is because of the new energy code. If your jurisdiction adopts that code the cost of home construction will go up and you will be limited on the number of windows and exterior doors you can have plus you will not be able to use but very few incandescent bulbs in your fixtures. It will increase the amount of insulation required depending on your area. It has reinstated the old "FHA" requirement of insulating crawl space floors which is the biggest mess and waste of money I have seen. The majority of that, that was put in years ago was subsequently taken out by the homeowners because of the mess. Either that or you have to insulate the crawl space walls, leave out the foundation vents and put in air exchangers to try and keep mold from forming. That is the stupidest thing I have ever heard of code wise.

A story about the dangers of sealing a house up too tight. Guy was teaching a class I was at told of couple who sealed up a house really tight in an attempt to make it really energy efficient. A worthy endeavor you would think especially in this day and age. Well they did and after they moved in the kids pets started dying. (gerbils) They bought some more, they died too. Come to find out they had sealed it up so well that the oxygen levels were dropping the house and of course the gerbils were like the canaries in coal mines. They then had to spend money on air exchange units to keep the oxygen levels up. The house could have killed them had they stayed shut up in it for a few days. The moral of the story is a little air leakage is not a bad thing for a home, it has to "breathe" some.
Logged
VinnieVOL
Heisman
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19476



View Profile
« Reply #30 on: July 12, 2012, 03:00:48 EDT »

 
Logged
CrossVol
Starter
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 687


Peyton in 2012!


View Profile
« Reply #31 on: July 12, 2012, 06:09:45 EDT »

I did my basement.  It took me three years, but I was not on a timetable.  My block walls were already painted with a waterproofer.  I would recommend caulking any cracks in the blocks or at the base of the blocks with silicone.  I then hung plastic and fastened 2x4 frames to the blocks using masonry screws.  I hung the plastic so that the 2x4 frames would sit on plastic on the floor, and then trimmed the plastic along the base.  Make sure you use pressure treated 2x4's for the bottom board on your frames.  I wanted the 2x4 walls so the electrical outlets were internal to the walls just like the rest of my house.  I then insulated with regular fiberglass insulation.  I insulated some of the interior walls as well for sound suppression.  I used 5/8" gypsum sheetrock board for additional sound suppression, but 1/2 would work fine as well.  Unfortunately, after I had the sheetrock hung, I learned about a mold resistant sheetrock for basements.  I wish I had used that, but I should be okay as my basement is pretty dry anyway.  I hired the sheetrock finishing, and I would recommend that to anyone.  Just make sure the finisher will clean up his mess afterward.  I hired the drop ceiling out, but luckily the ceiling supply company referred me to a guy that did a great job at a great price.  I hung the doors myself.  I ordered cabinets myself and had a builder friend of mine help me install them.  I hired most of teh plumbing out but that was not much.  I forgot to mention that my brother-in-law who had worked as a certified electrician helped me wire everything.  I installed engineered hardwood myself, floating on padding.  I would recommend this over laminate because of moisture.  The engineered hardwood will hold up to water a bit, but laminate will be ruined with any water exposure.  After completing my basement, I had my gutters replaced.  The company that did it reworked my guttering a bit in once spot, but that overwhelmed a drain near the outside door to my basement.  This caused water to come in under the door.  Luckily we were home when this happened.  I had had a 4x5 tiled area installed at the door.  We were able to shop-vac and absorb most of the water, but some got under the floor.  We ran a fan and dehumidifier to dry it out.  Except for a couple of small strips which look to have mildewed, the floor looks as if nothing had happened.  I need to go back and replace those two strips and you would never know anything had happened.  If you decide to go this route, make sure to leave gaps around the walls for expansion or the floor will buckle. When you install the baseboards, leave a gap for flooring to fit under for this reason.  After the flooring is installed, put shoe mold or quarter round to finish off the edges.  By the way, when installing sheetrock, leave a gap between the sheetrock and the floor in case you do get some water in the basement it might save your sheetrock.  I ordered the factory secodns Bruce engineered hardware from Hurst hardwords on the web and saved a bunch of money.  I did do some carpet but hired that out.  I did all the painting myself.  If you live near a supply store like Lowes, then don't sweat the quantity too much.  Just start with smaller quantities and see how far it gets you.
Logged

Wherever you go, there you are.
VinnieVOL
Heisman
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19476



View Profile
« Reply #32 on: July 12, 2012, 07:12:29 EDT »

I'm really enjoying everyone's DIY stories.  I'm sure my questions will keep coming!
Logged
EmerilVOL
Heisman
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 11431


Its Tailgating Time in Tennessee (AGAIN)!!!


View Profile WWW
« Reply #33 on: July 13, 2012, 02:07:28 EDT »

I'm really enjoying everyone's DIY stories.  I'm sure my questions will keep coming!

Start working out....I have a suggestion that anyone here doing DIY projects would be glad to exchange knowledge for your muscles as a second set of hands......

Logged

I made this post and I approved it.
EmerilVOL


Quasi EVol
Guest
« Reply #34 on: July 13, 2012, 02:21:12 EDT »

I'm really enjoying everyone's DIY stories.  I'm sure my questions will keep coming!

You can get plenty of DIY ideas at http://thereifixedit.failblog.org/:



Logged
Inspector Vol
All-American
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8236


View Profile
« Reply #35 on: July 13, 2012, 03:50:20 EDT »

That 1st pic is what my wiring would probably look like.      
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!